Cummins isc 360 workshop manual pdf download






















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If you have any questions, please contact us. Cummins Engine logo. Plug the holes instead of trying to blow the abrasive particles and debris with compressed air because the debris is often simply blown further into the oil drilling. All old gasket material must be removed from the parts gasket surfaces. However, it is not necessary to clean and polish the gasket surface until the machining marks are erased. Excessive sanding or buffing can damage the gasket surface.

Many newer gaskets are of the edge molded type a steel carrier with a sealing member bonded to the steel. What little sealing material that can adhere is best removed with a blunt-edged scraper or putty knife. Cleaning gasket surfaces where an edge-molded gasket is used with abrasive pads or paper is usually a waste of time. The surface finish will be damaged and abrasive particles can be forced into the liner material which can cause early cylinder wear-out or piston ring failures. Tape off or plug all openings to any component interior before using abrasive pads or wire brushes.

Then remove the tape or plug and clean the remaining area carefully and without the tool. DO NOT use compressed air to blow the debris out of oil drilling on an assembled engine!

More likely than not, the debris can be blown further into the drilling. Using compressed air is fine if both ends of the drilling are open but that is rarely the case when dealing with an assembled engine. Gasket Surfaces The object of cleaning gasket surfaces is to remove any gasket material, not refinish the gasket surface of the part. If a liquid gasket remover is used, check the directions to make sure the material being cleaned will not be harmed.

Air powered gasket scrapers can save time but care must be taken to not damage the surface. The angled part of the scraper must be against the gasket surface to prevent the blade from digging into the surface. Using air powered gasket scrapers on parts made of soft materials takes skill and care to prevent damage. Do not scrape or brush across the gasket surface if at all possible.

Solvent and Acid Cleaning Several solvent and acid-type cleaners can be used to clean the disassembled engine parts other than pistons. See Below. Kerosene emulsion based cleaners have different temperature specifications, see below. A cleaning tank that provides a constant mixing and filtering of the cleaning solution will give the best results. Remove all the gasket material, o-rings, and the deposits of sludge, carbon, etc. Be careful not to damage any gasket surfaces.

When possible, steam clean the parts before putting them in the cleaning tank. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury. Experience has shown that kerosene emulsion based cleaners perform the best to clean pistons. They often do not do a good job of removing deposits from the ring groove and are costly to dispose of properly.

Solutions with a pH above approximately 9. Chemicals with a pH above 7. As you move further away from the neutral 7. Be careful to not damage any gasket surfaces. Removing the heaviest dirt before placing in the tank will allow the cleaner to work more effectively and the cleaning agent will last longer.

Rinse all the parts in hot water after cleaning. Dry completely with compressed air. Blow the rinse water from all the capscrew holes and the oil drillings. If the parts are not to be used immediately after cleaning, dip them in a suitable rust proofing compound. The rust proofing compound must be removed from the parts before assembly or installation on the engine.

Steam Cleaning Steam cleaning can be used to remove all types of dirt that can contaminate the cleaning tank. It is a good method for cleaning the oil drillings and coolant passages WARNING When using a steam cleaner, wear safety glasses or a face shield, as well as protective clothing.

Hot steam can cause serious personal injury. Plastic Bead Cleaning Cummins Inc. Never use sand as a blast media to clean engine parts. Plastic bead cleaning can be used on many engine components to remove carbon deposits. The cleaning process is controlled by the use of plastic beads, the operating pressure and cleaning time.

CAUTION Do not use bead blasting cleaning methods on aluminum pistons skirts or the pin bores in any piston, piston skirt or piston crown. Small particles of the media will embed in the aluminum or other soft metal and result in premature wear of the cylinder liner, piston rings, pins and pin bores.

Valves, turbocharger shafts, etc. Follow the cleaning directions listed in the procedures. Remove the foreign material and plastic beads with compressed air, hot high pressure water or steam before placing them in tanks or cleaners.

The foreign material and plastic beads can contaminate the tank and any other engine parts cleaned in the tank. Contaminated parts may cause failures from abrasive wear. Plastic bead blasting media, Part Number , can be used to clean all piston ring grooves. Do not sure any bead blasting media on piston pin bores or aluminum skirts. Turning up the pressure can move material on the part and cause the plastic bead media to wear out more quickly.

Pressure should not cause beads to break. Rinse with hot water. Dry with compressed air. If the metal surface is disturbed the engine can be damaged due to increased parts clearance or inadequate surface finish on parts that move against other parts.

When cleaning pistons, it is not necessary to remove all the dark stain from the piston. All that is necessary is to remove the carbon on the rim and in the ring grooves. This is best done by directing the blast across the part as opposed to straight at the part. If the machining marks are disturbed by the blasting process, then the pressure is too high or the blast is being held on one spot too long.

The blast operation must not disturb the metal surface. Walnut shell bead blast material is sometimes used to clean ferrous metals iron and steel. The glass is an abrasive so when it is in a moving part, that part is abrading all the parts in contact with it. When higher pressures are used the media is broken and forms a dust of a very small size that floats easily in the air. This dust is very hard to control in the shop, particularly if only compressed air and not hot water is used to blow the media after it is removed from the blasting cabinet blowing the part off inside the cabinet may remove large accumulations but never removes all the media.

This is particularly true of pistons. Steam and soak the pistons first then use the plastic bead method to safely remove the carbon remaining in the grooves instead of running the risk of damaging the surface finish of the groove with a wire wheel or end of a broken piston ring.



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